Due to the extra padding on the front of the Karbacher seat, it's difficult to reattach the tailsection because it will not tilt all the way forward. You will need to carefully wiggle the plastic retaining pins back into place while you hold the tail section at a 45 degree angle.

The Karbacher seat excels in two areas. First, it has a top quality cover and a shape that provides more support under the crotch area. Second, the foam padding on the Karbacher seat is less spongy, but thicker. You can sit for 2-3 hours on this seat without getting the dreaded monkey butt.

The extra padding of the Karbacher seat positions the rider about 1/2" to 3/4" higher than the stock seat. The taller saddle height allows me to unfold my legs a little more. However, riders shorter than 5'8" may prefer the stock seat unless they don't mind tippy-toeing at every traffic signal and stop sign.

I've already been asked by a few local 748 & 9x6 riders how the Karbacher seat compares to the Corbin. To be honest, I've never had the opportunity to ride a superbike model with the Corbin. However, if the Corbin monoposta seat on my 1993 Superlight is any comparison, I'd say the Karbacher seat has the advantage. The Corbin has far too much of a "dish" cut into the butt area. As a result, I always feel like I'm sitting down in a shallow bowl and it forces me to lean forward with an arched back.

I investigated several bar adapter/bar riser kits offered on the market, but ultimately decided to try the Helibars based on their claim to both raise the bar position, and move it backwards by appromately one inch. I really like the riding position on the 1999 and 2000 Yamaha R6, and wanted to replicate this feeling on the 916. Sitting on the R6, the bars are just a short reach away and are mounted above the triple clamp. Yet they are still positioned low enough to force a natural lean over the front wheels. I ordered the Helibars from Chris Kelley at Cycleworks and they arrived promptly a few days later.

Helibars' instructions were about 75% complete. They covered most of the main points, but missed some critical steps. Here are my notes from the complete installation for those of you planning to perform the work yourself.

1. Place the bike up on a rearstand.
2. Remove the front windscreen.
3. Use a 12mm. box wrench to loosen the banjo bolts on both the clutch and brake master cylinders and rotate the fittings forward as shown Helibars' instruction sheet.
4. Use a 5mm. hex key to loosen the right side (throttle side) clip-on and slip it down the fork tube.
5. Disconnect the end of the steering damper from the frame mount.
6. Remove the clutch side handgrip. A liberal shot of WD40 in between the grip and the handlebar normally facilitates removal.
7. Loosen the three 6mm. pinch bolts that hold the upper triple clamp to the fork tubes and the steering stem. Shoot a small amount of WD40 in between the fork tubes and the triple clamp, and between the steering stem and the triple clamp. Remove the upper triple clamp by lifting it off with your hands.
8. Use a 5mm. hex key to loosen the left side (clutch side) clip-on and slip it down the fork tube.
9. Remove the clutch master cylinder and the turn signal housings from the left side handlebar. Lift the left side clip-on off the fork tube.
10. Slide the left side Helibar over the fork tube. Remount the turn signal housing and the clutch master cylinder onto the Helibar. Make sure the turn signal wires and the hydraulic lines are routed behind the fork tube. (See photo below.)
11. Remove the starter switch housing and the brake master cylinder from the right side handlebar. Remove the throttle assembly from the right side handlebar. Lift the right side clip-on off the fork tube.
12. BEFORE you slide the right side Helibar over the fork tube, re-install the starter switch housing and the throttle assembly onto the Helibar.
13. NOW slide the Helibar over the fork tube and remount the brake master cylinder. Note the routing of the hydraulic lines and the position of the starter switch as shown in the Helibar instructions.
14. Re-install the upper triple clamp back over the fork tubes and steering stem. You may need to stand in front of the bike facing the gas tank and pull the triple clamp towards your body as you push it down over the fork tubes and steering stem. Again, a liberal dose of WD40 helps it slide on easier. You can also place a wooden block squarely over the triple clamp and gently tap it down with a hammer.
15. Tighten the 6mm. triple clamp pinch bolts and reconnect the steering damper.
16. Re-install the clutch side hand grip.
17. Position the Helibars at the angle you desire and tighten the clamp bolts to the specified torque value. Turn the handlebars fully from side-to-side to ensure that the switchgear and the hydraulic fluid reservoirs do not interfere with any of the bodywork.
18. Bleed and refill the front brakes and the clutch slave cylinder to ensure that no air entered the system during step #3.
19. Re-install the windscreen.

Yes. For a rider of my proportions (5'10" tall, 32" inseam, and a size 16 shirt) the bars are close enough to my body and are high enough to take most of the pressure off my wrists and lower back. This is especially noticable at lower city speeds where there is insufficient wind blowing over the front screen to prop up my body.

Furthermore, the Karbacher seat keeps my butt from complaining even after 2 straight hours in the saddle. As an added bonus, the thick padding isolates my butt and inner thigh from some of the exhaust heat.

Helibars are typically sold for $239-$249 from most dealers, and the Karbacher seat retails for $289. Try looking for used pieces if you want to save a few dollars. Both items are well made and should survive multiple owners without a problem.

Overall, these are the first changes I recommend for anyone who wants to use their 748/916/996 for sport touring duty!